2008/07/29
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: Beijing Eats That Aren't Duck
There is more to Beijing food then that ever famous duck, but the other dishes rarely get any play from the outside world. Sure dishes like zhajiang mian are delicious and very popular, but its kind of hard to make a gourment version of the dish and most people will just choose a small, unassuming local joint to get their noodle fix. Beijing's done a good job over the years at taking other foods and making them its own, things like jianbing, kungpao chicken, and yangrou chuanr are all not native to Beijing, but some of the best versions can be found at local joints in the capital.
Beijing has a lot of very famous, very local snacks unique to the city that rarely receive any coverage because they are often not the kind of things westerners enjoy eating. Things like boiled lamb stomach, pungent dou zhi (mung bean milk), and lamb intestine soup are not exactly things that foreigners are jumping to eat, though many of them are very delicious.
One of the most famous places to try these dishes is Jiumen Xiaochi, located at Houhai. This place is perennially packed with Chinese tourists and is almost impossible to get a table during dinner hours, the only real way is to stand and stare with an evil eye at people eating long enough that they get up and leave, allowing you to take their table. You then buy a card, typically for RMB100, and go at it, hitting the different stands and trying many local snacks. It is almost shocking what you pay for the items here, especially considering how tiny portion sizes are. This is definitely the disneyfied version of Beijing snack foods. RMB 40 for baodu? RMB 2 for a tiny bowl of douzhi? RMB12 for 4 small lamb "sandwiches" (the "bread" being tiny shaobing)? These are the kind of things that, when you can find them on the street, you pay a kuai or two for (if that). For a local to go there and see the prices, its simply shocking, both how enterprising these vendors are and how many people are willing to pay the prices. The snacks are all good, if sometimes lacking a bit in authenticity and connection with the seller, but the prices and portion sizes are as likely to make us go back as a foreigner is to taking a second gulp of douzhi (ie, highly unlikely).
Another "snack" street that will be extremely popular with foreigners and is well known for charging crazy prices is the Donghuamen Night Market, located just west of Wangfujing. The area is famous for selling every kind of Chinese snack under the sun, not just local Beijing items, including "unique" options like starfish, seahorses, scorpions, and other assorted bugs. Unless you are only stopping in Beijing and not traveling anywhere else in China, don't waste your time at this "night market", or at least don't eat there. Even more so than Jiumen, prices are high and portions are small and authentic items are hard to find.
So what are you to do if you want to try the real goods? Well, one option is to ride around the hutongs of the city and just see what you can stumble upon. Another is to head to the HuGuoSi Snack area where you can expect authentic Beijing snacks at far more reasonable prices. Its much the same as what you'll find at Jiumen, but for a "local" price and with just as much tradition as Jiumen.
For baodu (boiled lamb stomach) and other lamb and cow intestines, there are a number of extremely popular and delicious locations worth a try, all with a long tradition of serving up these dishes in Beijing. These dishes are super simple, usually just boiled and then presented with a sesame paste (and other assorted sauces) dipping sauce, easy and delicious. Yao Ji Baodu, Baodu Feng, and Baodu Huang are all popular locations to sample this dish.
For the previously mentioned zhajiang mian, while I do tend to avoid tourist places, I can't help but like Old Beijing Zhajiang Mian King. There are locations around the city, but the Chongwenmen location, just west of Tiantan's North Gate and Hongqiao Market is a perfect stop after working up your appetite with a peaceful visit to Tiantan and a rough and tumble wheeling and dealing at Hongqiao. Despite the touristy feel to the place, prices are still reasonable and everything is very traditional. There is also the new, chic Noodle Bar in the 1949 Complex, though prices are far higher and quality is far lower, you'd be better served choosing Noodle Loft. Then again, zhajiang mian can be found all over the city and it may be best to search it out in a small, hutong or quiet street location, packed with boisterous locals.
Two others to note, the Guo Lin chain of restaurants offers decent versions of Beijing "jia chang cai" (basically just normal, daily food) for a reasonable price. Also, some may be interested in checking out Yue Bin, though it's nothing special, it was Beijing's first private restaurant and it still turns out decent versions of local, Beijing food at a good price point.
Oh yeah, and for those very brave who want a taste of douzhi at a very local place, there is Old Ciqikou Douzhi, go forth brave souls!
Here are the locations to try many of these local treats
33. Jiumen Xiaochi (九门小吃)
1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Off the northern edge of Houhai
孝友胡同1号后海北沿
6402-5858
34. Huguosi Snack Street (护国寺小吃店)
93 Huguosi Dajie
护国寺大街93号
35. Donghuamen Night Market (东华门小吃)
just west of the XinDongAn mall at Wangfujing
36. Yao Ji Stewed Liver (姚记炒肝)
72 Zhonglouwan Hutong,Gulou Dongdajie
鼓楼东大街钟楼湾胡同72号
37. Baodu Feng (爆肚冯)
3 locations around the city, but Qianmen is best
崇文区前门廊坊二条内
6308-3296
38. Baodu King (爆肚皇)
15 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie
东城区东直门外大街15号楼4-101号
6461-4659
39. Old Beijing ZhaJiang Mian King (老北京炸酱面大王)
29 Chongwenmen Wai Dajie (northwest corner of Hongqiao Rd)
崇文区崇文门外大街29号(红桥路口西北角)
6705-6705
40. Noodle Bar
1949-The Hidden City.
Courtyard 4, Gong Ti Bei Lu
Opposite Pacific Century Place South Gate
6501-1949
41. Yue Bin (悦宾饭店)
43, 31, Cuihua Hutong, Opposite the main gates of the National Museum of Art
翠花胡同43,31号
6524-5322
42. Guo Lin Homestyle Food 郭林家常菜
locations around the city
43. Old Ciqikou Douzhi (老磁器口豆汁儿店)
locations around the city
most convenient for tourists would be at Tiantan, opposite the park's north gate
2008/07/24
100 Days, 100 Restaurants/Bar Review: The Saddle Cantina
There's been a lot of positive talk about this place all over the web and Beijing Boyce is a big fan, so I won't say too much about the drinks other than that they are mixed well, a good size for the price, and the beer is really, really cold. One of their more interesting drinks is the spicy margarita, made with their own pineapple and chili infused tequila and garnished with a chili pepper. A beer is a little more expensive than at Rickshaw, but almost all the drinks are in the RMB40-55 range. There are also a lot of drink specials, including the great Cinco de Drinko, in which drinks are half off on the 5th of every month. Popcorn (very, very salty) is free and is a decent snack to go along with their drink.
The food is my main concern, though. The menu is fairly brief, offering burritos, enchiladas, and soft tacos as the only main dishes (though on the weekend, there are grilled kabobs). The best starting option is the Tex-Mex chips and guacamole, with the option of either the house made guac or a DIY version for RMB5 more. Having sampled all the menu items, I can say that all are good and will satisfy any Tex-Mex cravings an American may have. The prices aren't cheap (the food is also in the RMB50 range), but portions are decidedly large and very filling.
While this is the kind of place to enjoy some drinks and food with some friends and is very casual and laid back, if you get the right balcony table and the live music's going, it can almost have a romantic feel to it. The staff is very well trained and quick to respond and accommodate most requests. Being someone that is typically hard to please, this place always makes me happy. The Rickshaw guys continue to do things right with this excellent bar/restaurant.
32. The Saddle Cantina
81 Sanlitun North Rd., Nali Studios East, 2F
三里屯北路81号北京那里花园内二层小楼
5208-6005
2008/07/23
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: It's Getting Hot, Let's Have Hotpot!?!
For many in Beijing, and around China for that matter, when they think hotpot, they thing Dong Lai Shun. It's one of Beijing's "lao zi hao", a restaurant that has been around for hundreds of years.Unfortunately, like a lot of the "lao zi hao", its passing by on name recognition and 2 great locations at Wangfujing more than on quality food. The Wangfujing location at Xin Dong An should be avoided at all costs as its not only over priced (RMB8 for a bowl of zhimajiang?!?),but also lacks taste. Everything from the soup base to the too thinly sliced meat to the insanely expensive zhimajiang, this place is just disappointing. It's sad really, because such a great name that can usually offer a top product at other locations, fails so miserably in such a heavy tourist spot.
The hotpot meat of choice in Beijing is lamb and the source of those lambs is usually Inner Mongolia. Xiao Fei Yang is an Inner Mongolian chain that gets its goods directly from the source. They pride themselves on a soup base so flavorful that you can eat everything straight out of the pot without dipping it in any sauce. They also offer a wider range of "diverse" offal cuts and some other interesting items including many noodle choices. Service is usually fairly good and decor is tasteful, but kept to a minimum.
Hotpot isn't a dish one identifies with southern China, but the Macau import Dolar Shop (which has long had a Shanghai outpost), recently opened in Joy City. This restaurant's speciality is a classier environment and a DIY sauce bar that is a lot of fun. Another interesting speciality is a large selection of different "meat" (often seafood) balls or "noodles" that include unique tableside presentation. A number of soup bases are available, but fans of spice might be disappointed with this place. When you're done with a meal,there are ice and fruit bingsha's available to cool you down.
If you're looking for something a little less Beijing and a little more Chongqing to satisfy a spice craving, Hai Di Lao is the king of the spicy hotpot. Not only that, but they go over the top in customer service. As you are waiting (and you will wait awhile if you don't have a reservation), they offer drinks, snacks, games, and even shoeshines and manicures. Once you get inside the restaurant, you'll notice that the interior is far nicer than your typical hotpot joint(though maybe not at the same level as Dolar Shop). The spicy hotpot is the way to go, but its highly recommended you get a half-and-half as it IS very spicy and its good to have an alternative to the spice.A very good lemonade and suan mei tang are on offer as well to help minimize the heat. The menu is your usual assorted meats and vegetables, but another spot where this place shines is in its hand pulled noodles presented at the end of the meal. The whirling and twirling of your noodle guy would earn the admiration of even the best gymnasts competing in the Beijing Olympics.
Feng Gu Hotpot is another DIY sauce bar, offers free bingsha, and is fairly popular among the locals. Some mediocre, but serviceable options include the Hotpot Loft for extremely fancy (and overpriced hotpot), I Rock My Pot (an expat favorite), and T6 Hot Pot (a decent choice for those in the CBD). Hotpot is an extremely simple dish, so the key is the quality/freshness of ingredients, the service, the price, and the extras that make the difference between a top restaurant and just an average spot.
Hotpot is not your summer dish and so for most visitors, it will comedown to a choice, that choice should be between Hai Di Lao and XiaoFei Yang (with Dolar Shop coming in just a bit back for the bronze),but I think on most days, Hai Di Lao wins out. If you're just looking for a quick, fast food version of hotpot, Taiwan's Xiabu Xiabu has a number of locations around the city that do a good job. So find some friends, hit your nearest hotpot spot and enjoy the evening.
23. 东来顺 (Dong Lai Shun)
2 Xiaoyangmao Hutong, Jianguomen Neidajie
建国门内大街小羊毛胡同2号
6524-1387
24. 小肥羊 Xiao Fei Yang (Little Sheep)
Locations around the city
25. 豆捞坊 (Dolar Shop)
7th Floor, Joy City, 131 Xidan Dajie
西单北大街131号大悦城7楼
5971-6881
26. 海底捞 (Hai Di Lao)
Locations at Sanlitun, Xidan, and in Haidian
27. 丰滑火锅 (Feng Gu Hotpot)
8 Xuanwumen Dajie, 5th Floor Sogo Mall
宣武区宣武门外大街8号庄胜崇光百货新馆5楼
6310-4703
28. 藏酷 (Hotpot Loft)
North Gongti Rd in the restaurant complex behind the Comfort Inn
6501-7501
29. 锅儿滚 (I Rock My Pot)
37-38 Chaowai Dajie
朝外大街37-38号
5879-0999
30. T6 Hotpot
Locations in Jianwai Soho and Xiandai Soho
31. 呷哺呷哺涮涮锅 (Xiabu Xiabu Hot Pot)
Locations around the city
2008/07/08
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: Yunnnan Revisited
22. Yunteng Binguan
Not far from the train station you will find Yunnan's provincial office, housed in Yunteng Binguan, that, like many of the others, includes a very interesting restaurant. When you enter the hotel, whose entrance is off a 2nd Ring Road access road and in a very residential area, you don't expect the restaurant to be very much, but then you enter a lush, green area that almost replicates a "Rainforest Cafe" with its hanging plants and flowing water. Surprisingly, the restaurant received an "A" grade for its health/sanitary standards, though it was a bit surprising looking at the old table clothes and chair covers.
The food was your average Yunnan fare, prices weren't bad, though many seemed on the high end, especially those for Yunnan's famous mushrooms, but that's what you pay for having fresh ones flown in. However, a common local dish like grilled fish cost was only RMB9 per fish. Niu Gan Ba was an excellent starting dish and the cold mi xian was also very good. The mint salad is supposedly a favorite, but we didn't order it (though we could have ued the added green). The kitchen went a little wrong with hei san dou, another classic, which was extremely salty and a dry fried potato cake which was way undercooked (though after arguing with our waiter and having it cooked a little longer, the flavor improved, but it still fell short of expectations). The mijiu was excellent, when it finally came. A large tong (container) of it only ran us RMB50 and produced the said amount of glasses (about 8). It was unique from other rice wines I've tried as it seemed to have a fruit added to it, producing a different, sweet flavor from other rice wines.
From the above complaint, you can probably guess that service was far from satisfactory. While it seemed the restaurant had a large wait staff, most of the time they were just standing around or not on the floor and they were very slow at bringing many of the things we asked for. One nice advantage to the absent waitstaff was that we weren't rushed out after finishing the meal and were able to sit and chat while finishing off the mijiu for well over an hour, however one wonders if on a busier night, we would have been rushed out.
The atmosphere was unique, but not necessarily in an attractive way. The food offerings were only average and prices weren't great. The meal came out to RMB65 per person, similar to Middle 8 and In & Out. For that price, I'd choose to Middle 8's more modern/trendy atmosphere and equally good (or better) food. If you're looking for some of the most authentic Yunnan ingredients flown in fresh, this place has them (but so do a lot of the other Yunnan restaurants in the city), however only Yunteng has the Yunnan government's seal of approval.
Yunteng Binguan
Bldg 7, East Area, Donghuashi Beili,
southwest of Dongbianmenqiao
东花市北里东区7号楼东便门桥西南
6711-3322
2008/06/24
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: Pizza in China, All Styles But Chicago
Kro's Nest prides itself on its New York style pizza. I'm not a New Yorker and I've never been a fan of New York pizza and thus, I don't love Kro's. The slices are large and the choices are diverse, but while these pies are good, they don't match up to some of the other offerings around the city. Perhaps I'm too hard wired for Chicago pizza, but the crust on these pizzas doesn't do it for me. The pizzas are overloaded with toppings, a good thing until you realize it results in a crust that's a soggy mess with no crunch. Still, other contributors swear that this is the best New York-style pizza one can find in China and the atmosphere definitely has a US pizzeria feel to it.
Of the things you can say about The Tree's pizzas, one cannot be that they lack bite. A brick oven in one of the main rooms turns out incredibly crispy, tasty classic Italian pizzas. The ingredients are kept to a minimum, but taste definitely is a maximum. This place's thin crust is cooked perfectly and offers a great crunch, the perfect food to go alongside one of their many Belgian brews. The atmosphere is relaxed and isn't quite as good as Kro's, but with good beer and a good pie, what more can you ask for?
There are many other options for pizza around the city, not the least 2 very famous US chains, Pizza Hut and Papa John's. For the uninitiated visitor, China's Pizza Huts come as a shock as they are considered "expensive" and a "date place" by teens and young college students. This isn't your shotgun racks and rednecks dining out destination like in the US, no no, it has class. The salad bar and its strange to foreigners one bowl policy, leading to crazy geometric creations, is a thing of interest to foreigners, but its all about the pizza. Unfortunately, for the fancier digs, the pizza isn't much different from the US, though toppings often vary from Caribbean Spice to "French" Red Wine chicken. Papa John's offers a similar, if a bit more casual, upgrade on their US locations (I've never seen a Papa John's in the US that wasn't carry out only), but again, the pizza is almost identical to what I remember eating on late, drunken nights during my college days. On the subject of American chains, Shanghai has a California Pizza Kitchen (I believe that spot was formerly the Hard Rock, but not sure), but no correspondents have yet to try it.
There are also a number of non-traditional pizza joints that offer pizza, some worth mentioning are Mexican Wave, the Den and Pass By Bar. Mexican Wave and the Den both produce decent versions, but why would you go to either when you can hit up Kro's or the Tree within a 10-15 minute walk? Pass By Bar's pizzas are interesting, including yangrou chuanr and kungpao chicken pizzas, but beyond the crazy toppings, there isn't much going for it. If you're at Pass By drinking (or the Den) and really hungry, consider the pizzas, but it's not worth a trip just for the pizza. Schlotzky's in the CBD offers pizzas for lunch and while they are pretty good (especially the bbq chicken), for RMB40, I'd rather go to the Pizza Company where the pies aren't as good, but you get more for your money.
Dianping gives Pizza Buona top billing in Beijing, though it has only received 14 reviews at this point. Many expats give the nod to Hutong Pizza, though I've yet to try that. Though, despite all these decent (to delicious) options, I've yet to find a good Chicago style pizza in this city, guess there are some things you must go home for.
11. Kro's Nest (also a location in Haidian)
Inside Gongti North Gate, next to Vics
工体北门Vics旁
6553-5253
12. The Tree
43 North Sanlitun
北三里屯43号
6415-1954
13. Pizza Hut (locations around Beijing and Shanghai)
14. Papa John's (locations around Beijing and Shanghai)
15. Mexican Wave
Dongdaqiao Lu,
东大桥路贵友大厦往北200米路
6506-3961
16. The Den
4 East Gongti Rd, next to City Hotel
工体东路甲4号城市宾馆旁边
6592-6290
17. Pass By Bar
108 Nanluoguxiang
南锣鼓巷108号
8403-8004
18. Schlotzky's
China World Trade Center, Tower 2, 1 JianGuomen Wai
建国门外1号,国贸大厦2座
19. The Pizza Company (locations around the city)
20. Pizza Buona
7 West Gongti Rd
朝阳区工体西路7号
6551-3518
21. California Pizza Kitchen
Shanghai Centre, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu,
南京西路1376号上海商城
021-62798032
2008/06/16
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: A Little Different, but A Little Off...
The menu is simple, appetizers, yogurt, salad, kebabs, and stews and for 2 people, one of the larger kabob selections (featuring multiple kinds of beef) and an appetizer (a number of interesting dips including classics like hummus and babaganoush) are enough to fill you up.
The "dips" are great and come with a neverending supply of free flatbread. A regular favorite is the hummus with meat or mushroom for around RMB20. Their made-in-house yogurts are great and have that sour kick that you'd expect in an unsweetened (and not overly processed) pure yogurt. The salad options are nice and light and full of extremely fresh vegetables.
The kebabs come with the choice of a side salad, rice, or a half portion of each (1 meat for around RMB50, 2 for under RMB100). These aren't your chuanr style kabobs, there's a lot of meat to them and they are all cooked to perfection, nice grilled flavor, but still very juicy. The problem is that there's something missing, the taste. The beef is a little better than the chicken or lamb, but they all seem to be missing seasoning or a sauce that would make them excellent. As a lover of grilled meat, I've only ordered the kebabs and not the stews, and yet I'm a little bit remiss each time.
Respecting the Islamic culture, the restaurant doesn't serve any alcohol, but IS byob and, amazingly, has no corkage fee (at last check), making this a very unique experience in Beijing. The meats can be matched perfectly with any number of nice reds and a really fabulous meal can be had at a very reasonable price. I just wish they'd take a hint from their Xinjiang cousins and spice up the kebabs a bit, it's the only thing keeping this place from being a regular weekly dining stop instead of an occasional meal.
10. Rumi (入迷)
Intersection of Gongti North Road and Third Ring Road, Opposite of Zhaolong Hotel
工体北路和三环内兆龙饭店对面
8454-3838
2008/06/12
Bar Review: Enoteca Beijing
Enoteca's Shanghai branches are very hip wine bars (they call them lounges) with dark colors and lots of wood that would seem appropriate in any of the world's major cities. The Beijing branch keeps up the cool appearance with the use of wood throughout and also large windows that allow people watching and viewing the impressive sky screen at The Place. Unlike the Shanghai locations, the Beijing location has pairs of lounge chairs around the window as well as couches that gives it more of a coffee house/lounge feeling, then a row of tables that are (very) tightly packed together. There is a bar area and also high tables when it gets to be standing room only. There is also the "cellar"/boutique area, but unlike the Shanghai locations, it doesn't seem like its big enough for private parties. Much like the Shanghai locations, the music selection was an excellent mix of R&B, jazz, and electronic played at the right levels.
The main reason to come here is for the wine, page after page of choices under RMB200 BY THE BOTTLE, including a number of selections for under RMB100, and we aren't talking about swill, these are all quality wines, mostly New World, heavy on South American choices. Food choices are extremely limited, the menu offers a few tapas (RMB40-130), sandwiches (RMB40-50), and salads (RMB30-50) that are executed well, but portions are small and very pricey. This is a place to go to drink, stop in for a pre/post dinner glass or two of wine and maybe have a snack as you convince yourself to order that second bottle, but if you're coming here hungry, you will be disappointed.
Service was a problem, but the managers were on hand and hustling to smooth out any service mistakes. The lounge is currently undergoing its "soft opening", so hopefully this was first night (or first week) jitters and these problems can be ironed out when the doors swing open for real.
Some people won't like the closeness of things (definitely not a place for those who areclaustrophobic), but it goes with the communal, friendly feeling of wine bars the world over. I can imagine that on most weekend nights, this space will be entirely packed and very noisy (much like the Shanghai locations), but last night when the crowd was at a minimum, the atmosphere was great. It's a place to chill out with a glass of wine and chat with friends, there are no tvs, and music is meant to be ambient, nothing more. The location is perfect, close enough to major office buildings like Guomao and Fortune Plaza to the west so that it can attract the white collar crowd after a hard days work, but also close to the embassy district to the east. Expect a nightly crowd of lawyers, bankers, and businessmen to rub shoulders with diplomats and other wine lovers of the city.
Enoteca is sure to become an instant favorite and bring a touch of culture to our fair capital.
9. Enoteca (sorry, I'm getting desperate, and it does serve food, so its included in the 100 Days, 100 Restaurnts series)
Northern Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu
光华路9号世贸天阶
2008/05/30
100 Days, 100 Restaurants: A Taste of the Chinese Melting Pot in the Capital
Today marks 70 days until the Opening Ceremonies and we've only reviewed 3 restaurants so far (editors note: we know that now there are only 68 days, this post was delayed), so there's going to be a lot of pressure to get through this project, but it will be fun, too. Lot's of eating out and we're always looking for those who'd like to contribute a review or two (or would like to join in when the "editorial board" goes out).
Yunnan
I figured after starting out failing to review a Chinese restaurant it was time to start talking Chinese food, therefore the first review will touch on Yunnan cuisine. Yunnan food is a mix of Chinese, Chinese minorities, and the dishes of the bordering Southeast Asian countries, it is a true culinary melting pot. The local specialities the province is most famous for are mixian (rice noodles, especially crossing the bridge noodles), locally made goat cheese, Yunnan ham, mushrooms, and other wild vegetables.
4. S'Silk Road
When it first opened, this restaurant was named as one of the world's hottest and the Lotus Lane location is regularly packed, requiring reservations a day or two in advance (especially on the weekend. The passing of years has done nothing to impact this restaurant's popularity. The restaurant was set up by an artist and this influence can be seen especially at the Xiandai Soho branch.
The menu is varied, some popular dishes are the peppercorn sausage, the huge whole fish soup, the mushroom choices, and the barbecued options. While there are many drink options on the menu, your choice should be focused on two, the variety of pu’er tea choices (directly from Yunnan) and the homemade mijiu (rice wine).
The food is very fresh, but often less-than-stellar, especially when taking into consideration the higher prices. This is a perennial favorite and its Shichahai location is always packed so make sure to have a reservation. The Xiandai Soho is a bit out of the way for many, but its industrial chic interior is more representative of the artist/owner behind the restaurant. While the menu choices are authentic and there are some rare options, the execution isn't always there. If you are looking for the see-and-be-seen crowd, go to this restaurant's Shichahai location, if you're a rising artist or want to get a feel for the scene, sample the offerings at Xiandai Soho, for everybody else, the city definitely has better Yunnan offerings, but you'll still walk out having had a decent meal.
S'Silk Road (茶马古道)
Shichahai, Lotus Lane
什刹海前海西沿荷花市场
6615-5515
88 Jianguo Rd, Xiandai Soho, Building D, 3rd Floor
朝阳区建国路88号SOHO现代城D座3楼会所
8580-4286
5. Dali Courtyard
A unique hutong setting just off Gulou Dong Dajie makes this place difficult to find, but worth searching out. The restaurant is located in a small courtyard and you can choose to dine inside or under the stars, this place makes an excellent choice for a date or for those looking for a different experience.
The menu is simple as there is no menu, you get whatever the chef is preparing that night, with adjustments for any preferences or allergies diners may have. The set menu changes about once a month and will run you RMB100 per person for 5 or so dishes. There are higher priced set menus that you can choose from, but only if you’ve booked in advance.
When we last went, the overall experience was very good. It started out with a very refreshing vegetable salad that showed the Southeast Asian influences. The main vegetable was cucumber and radish, but contained the classic mix of flavors, chili added a spicy kick, fresh lemon offered sour refreshment, and fruit gave it a sweetness. The other small dish/starter was a delicious version of niu gan ba (preserved meat). The main courses, including a grilled fish and a mushroom dish, were more inconsistent. The mushrooms were great, but the fish failed to impress me, there just wasn't that much flavor to it and the Siracha-like sauce didn't do much to improve things.
This restaurant is hutong dining at its finest (yes, yes, I know how much I've already made fun of hutong dining) and is an excellent introduction to Yunnan food. While the price puts it as one of the most expensive Yunnan restaurants, the setting and the surprise that goes with not knowing what will come out of the kitchen next (but assured that it will be delicious), makes it worth checking this restaurant out.
Dali
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulous Dong Dajie, Gulou
鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号
8404-1430
6. Middle 8
This longtime Sanlitun favorite has a lot to offer, but if you're looking for authenticity, it falls short, its heavy on atmosphere and style, but doesn't cut it otherwise. That is not to say the food on offer isn't great, all the dishes sampled were good, its just the trendiness of the place means the menu skews to the Southeast Asian side of Yunnan cuisine.
The hei san duo, a mix of diced pork and preserved vegetables, was good as was the mixian. The meat options were varied and all prepared very well. The cold dishes we sampled, which included a spicy chicken and a dish of mixed greens with wild vegetables, were all done excellently.
Also excellent, and a bit of a surprise, was the waiter's honesty. When we ordered the house made mijiu, our waiter informed us that the quality today was not up to the restaurant's usual standards and so they recommended ordering something else. The wait staff's attentiveness let a bit something to be desired, though. In the end, this is a stylish and reasonably priced restaurant in a very popular expat enclave (thus reservations are highly recommended).
Middle 8 (中8楼)
Bldg 8, Dong Sanlitun, In alley running east from 3.3 Mall
朝阳区东三里屯中8楼
6413-0629
7. In & Out
This restaurant is an interesting experience from the moment you walk in and see all the minority trinkets and the wait staff decked out in minority costumes. The atmosphere is very unique and has a rustic chic feel to it, some would even call it romantic.
The problem is that you will never be "in and out", because the wait staff is not very good, perhaps its the fact they spend their time singing instead of serving, but once you sit down, the battle begins to get them to help out.
As for the food, the mixian, the staple dish of the province, falls short of expectations, as do most of the other dishes. The cold jidou fen, pineapple rice, and grilled fish are very popular and often are good, but the kitchen is very inconsistent so you can also be disappointed.
The problems with consistency and the wait staff are too bad, because this restaurant is one of the cheaper Yunnan options in Beijing. With the large number of Yunnan options in the city and dining options at Sanlitun in general, its hard to recommend this restaurant, though you may get lucky.
In & Out (一坐一忘丽江主题餐厅)
1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Next to Jenny Lou's
三里屯北小街1号
8454-0086
8. Southern Barbarian (Shanghai)
For our final foray into Yunnan cuisine, we took a trip south and sampled the offerings in Shanghai, after all, its also hosting some of the Olympic events. This small, extremely popular restaurant is flooded with expats (and almost exclusively expats) who come to sample the varied Yunnan fare.
The first thing? Toto, we ain't in Kansas anymore, and the prices make this quite obvious. For the most part, things stay within the realm of reasonable, with most cold dishes falling between RMB20-30 and meat dishes in the RMB40-60 range, but when it comes to grilled items, things start getting out of hand, especially with the vegetables (RMB15 for 4-5 skewers of grilled scallions???).
The (expensive) grilled fish was okay, but a little dry, while the toothpick beef and fried potato cake were all very good. The owner is from Mengzi and we didn't regret ordering the Mengzi rice cakes.
This restaurant isn't easy to find and perhaps its hidden location is what deters more Chinese from going, though my bet is the price is what acts as the repellent. Portions were relatively small and despite ordering more dishes than we usually would, we still walked out not feeling completely full. Also, while the menu was chock full of imported beer choices, it failed to offer a Yunnan beer and no home-made mijiu, a Yunnan restaurant staple in the capital. While Yunnan options are abundant in Beijing, in Shanghai, unfortunately, this is one of your better choices, but it falls below the standards of the capital's restaurants.
Southern Barbarian (南蛮子)
2/F, Area E, Ju'Roshine Life Art Space, 56 Maoming Nan Lu, Huaihai Zhong Lu near Changle Lu
卢湾区茂名南路56号聚荣轩生活艺术空间E区2楼(近长乐路)
021-5157-5510
2008/05/06
100 Days, 100 Restaurants - Upscale Homestyle Hits Beijing
Over the past few years its been popular in the US to take "homestyle" cooking and "comfort food" and turn them into high end cuisine. There are currently a number of places in Beijing trying to take simple foods and turn them gourmet and we'll look at some today.
Korean
A few week back when having dinner with a prominent China blogger (no names), the topic somehow turned to Korean food and he stated how he regularly angered Koreans by referring to their food as "peasant" food. Even when I've had "upscale" Korean, back when Chicago still had a branch of Woo Lae Oak, the dishes weren't much different from what you'd find at a hole in the wall place in Koreatown. Well, in Beijing there are two places offering higher end Korean, but much like my Chicago experience, this isn't imperial style Korean food, its the same soups and grilled meats that can be found anywhere else.
1. Saveurs de Coree
From the French name, you know you're in for a different experience and when you walk into the stylishly decorated tiny dining room, your suspicions are confirmed. There isn't much decoration and the restaurant is very small, but it does have a wonderful rooftop terrace (arguably the best for al fresco dining in the area), making summer eating a great option. This is definitely a place that you need to contact in advance, but the nice thing is there are lots of choices in Nanluoguxiang. The menu features all the regular favorites and doesn't really diverge from what you'd get anywhere else, except the meats are served on sizzling plates instead of grilled in front of you. The nice thing is that all the hotplate dishes come with lettuce, vegetables, and dipping paste. Of course, all diners also get a decent selection of the requisite pancheon (including a good kimchi). The restaurant emphasizes that its Korean food is healthier than other places, the only place this is really noticeable is in the small portion sizes. The soon tofu was good and the dukbokki didn't disappoint, but both were a bit pricey. The spicy pork served on a sizzling plate (RMB58) was excellent, a bit charred, but that's just how I like it.
This place is a wonderful spot if you're looking for Korean food served a bit different and where you won't come out smelling of grilled meats. Prices are relatively reasonable considering the surroundings, but regulars at lower end spots or the Wudaokou Korean places will come away wondering why they paid so much and yet might not be full. Drink prices are high as well, especially when compared to the price of the food. In the end, its a great spot for a date, but not for a big meal with the guys.
Saveurs de Coree
29 Nanluoguxiang
东城区南锣鼓巷29号
6401-6083
2. Sorabel
Set in the swanky Lufthansa Center, despite the many changes around it, this restaurant has been in this location for many years. Fortunately, as Beijing has expanded, this spot on the northeast corner of 3rd Ring Road has slowly been surrounded by a larger and larger population from which to draw customers. Despite this, the customer base hasn't changed much, businessmen working in the area buildings and Koreans separated from the Wudaokou masses, as well as getting a sliver of the "women who lunch" business. It's your typical Korean barbeque, though in a cleaner and more posh setting. Prices are high compared to the other barbeque joints in the city, but reasonable considering the surroundings. If you're in the area or live nearby and have a hankering for Korean food, Sorabel can fill it, otherwise, it's not worth the trip as the city has many, better options.
Sorabel
Basement 1, Lufthansa Center
50 Liangmaqiao Lu
朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎友谊商城B1楼
6465-3388
Noodles
3. Noodle Loft
Noodles are a staple in any northerner's diet and are typically consumed at a neighborhood place where heaping bowls of daoshao mian (knife cut noodles) or niurou la mian (pulled noodles with beef) are served form RMB8 or so. Noodle Loft, from the people behind the other "Loft" restaurants, takes these northwestern staple dishes and takes them upscale, fortunately along the way, the prices stay somewhat reasonable. All noodle dishes are under RMB20, and while that may seem like a lot, for those working in the CBD, its nothing new. The difference is, the setting here is more like a fancy bar rather than a noodle shop. The noodle portions are small, with the popular items being the DIY daoshao mian (RMB12) and youmian (RMB16), which comes with 3 dipping sauces. Menu dishes range from around RMB25-50, and help satiate your hunger after the rather small bowl of noodles.
This certainly isn't your local noodle spot where a bowl of noodles is enough for a meal. In this high end environment, noodles are meant as just one course, alongside a variety of hot and cold dishes. The place definitely gives off a cool vibe and there's a lot to see, especially while watching the action in the open kitchen as the chefs prepare the variety of noodles. The Baiziwan location is even nicer than the Heping one, but the Heping one is easier to find and get to as its very close to the Heping Xijie subway station on Line 5 (easier, but still not that easy as its tucked into a hotel with little signage to guide you). It's noodles like you've never had them before and well worth checking out at least once.
Noodle Loft
Heping Xijie, JiSuanJi Chang Yuan Number 3
东城区和平西街计算机三厂院3号
5130-9655
2008/04/29
100 Days, 100 Restaurants
It won't be one restaurant per day, but will probably be broken down by style of food and other themes I can come up with, yet by August 8th, I will have reviewed 100 Beijing (and some in Shanghai, as its also an Olympic city) restaurants.
Realistic? Perhaps not, but its always good to have a goal.