Don't They Read China Law Blog?!?

I was unsurprised by yet another story of rioting at a factory in Dongguan. For the past few months, riots seem to be erupting all over China, but factory riots and general discontent has become a common thread amongst workers in Dongguan and Shenzhen. Therefore, when I saw the story "Workers riot at Chinese toy factory" about workers running rampant at a Hasbro factory in Dongguan, I was unfazed and quickly skimmed the article, until...this quote:

Guo [Chenming, cited as a "local Communist Party official"] doubted the allegation, saying it would be foolish for the police to incite such a massive crowd. He also said the 80 workers didn't get full severance because of bad performance. But he added that the company didn't fully understand new labor laws and was also to blame.

The Labor Contract Law has been something that foreign lawyers in China and legal bloggers writing on China (none more so than China Law Blog) have been talking about ever since it was first announced in June of last year and the fervor continued once it came into force on January 1 of this year.

Most Chinese companies quickly tried to sign contracts with their employees and dot their i's and cross their t's in preparation for the law, but some ignored it, either feeling the government wouldn't enforce it or that their employees wouldn't realize their newfound rights.

With the spotlight on factories of the Pearl River Delta as of late, workers, even migrant laborers working in factories, aren't as ignorant as they used to be and either know of their rights or know enough to find a lawyer who promptly informs them of their rights.

Though the factory claims to have paid all proper compensation under the law, it wouldn't surprise me if they cut some corners and didn't follow the full letter of the current labor law. If you are a business owner in China, you can't be too careful, especially if you're a foreigner, DO NOT play fast and loose with this law, make sure you are in compliance with it (and while you're at it, make sure all foreign employees have the proper visas).

PS: While we're at it, 2 asides, the article paints a good picture of how these protests can come about as well as a brief look at the current (scary) situation in the PRD. And while its not connected, I saw this cartoon today on a Korean blog I regularly visit as to how some Koreans get around the laws/requirements of a contract. Good stuff!

Christmas and Christians in China

Much talk exists about the size of China's Christian population, predictions even exist that its currently the largest in the world (though Pat Robertson is still hoping for more). The media typically ignores the issue unless some priest has been arrested or a crackdown is on, in which case China is viewed as an evil oppressor of religion and is beat down with Soviet-evil empire era rhetoric among the religious community in the US.

The reality of Christianity in China is far different from the picture you get in US/Western media. That many Chinese Christians choose house churches over official institutions often has little to do with a decision to stick it to the government as it does location. Even in large cities in China, its far from the US Bible Belt, churches are few and far between and so choosing between a long bus ride (or two) and something down the block often chooses itself. House churches, in most cases, are far from the clandestine ideas that people have about them, they are usually very open and often take place in offices or other buildings instead of just a person's home.
With that in mind, I want to share with you some pictures taken at a recent event at Sea World in Shenzhen. Sea World is an extremely popular destination in the city where there are a number of bars and other popular establishments. On Christmas Eve, a friend's church was granted permission by the government and local police to hold a Christmas choir concert at that location, which was very well received and attended, with minimal incident. This is not a church with close ties to the government or anything like that and its members come from a range of different churches, including both house churches and state-endorsed churches. There is nothing special about this church, just that they tried and were granted a permit for this gathering which turned into a great success. God's word is spreading throughout China and it isn't being done by crazy missionaries (though the large number of beautiful girls in the choir helps).

Pictures courtesy of Princess Dudu and are not to be copied, anyone interested in using them should contact me.




PS: Okay, to lighten things up a bit, I just had to share this picture. It shows perfectly a mirror of the battle in the west between secular and religious. In the front, strong Christians who came out to sing songs to and about God/Jesus on Christmas, in the back a huge, jolly Santa with a gigantic beer mug.

Beijing Redeems Itself

Returning to Beijing was difficult at first, the city is in complete upheaval as it prepares for the Olympics and life can be...frustrating to say the least (more on that later). However, as a lover of the arts, this city is still the best, bar none. Just look at the calender from this past weekend. A difficult choice Saturday night between a PK-14/Retros show and a Secondhand Roses gig, plus the good people at Acupuncture were coming correct for lovers of house music. Sunday was much easier, with New Pants putting on a show elsewhere in the city.

These are only the musical acts, when you look at the art installations/gallery shows going on during a typical weekend, not to mention book readings/lectures, poetry slams, plays, etc it is staggering. Not to mention the (as of yet unfulfilled) promise of NHL hockey.

For culture vultures of a certain ilk (namely lovers of contemporary art and contemporary Chinese music), one weekend in Beijing promises more activities than a month (or more) in the Southern Square of Shenzhen-Guangzhou-Macau-Hong Kong.

Slapping Wu Yi in the Face

Back in my old "hometown", down south in Shenzhen, the local government, along with the central government, is striking hard against counterfeit products. An inspection team from the central government that is to include Wu Yi is set to visit Shenzhen and its electronics markets this week and in the lead up to this, the local government has been actively raiding and threatening stall owners and market managers in and around the most famous of Shenzhen's electronics streets, Huaqiangbei.

What is so stunning about it is the open defiance shown by certain stall owners at the markets. Rumors about the markets future have taken over causing even legit businesses to close their doors, including in some cases grocers (am I being overly optimistic in suspecting the grocers are legit and not selling "fake" goods?). While the counterfeit sellers are shutting up shop, they were also reported to be promising customers that this was only temporary, after Wu Yi and the central government comes through, they'll reopen, and some had the audacity to say they'd reopen stronger than before.

I'm a bit surprised because there's yet to be much discussion of this in the English blogshpere or in the English dailies (especially Shenzhen Daily, or did I just miss it?). "Fake" mobile phones is a lot harder to deal with than fake LV bags. Everyone who is shopping at Luohu Commercial Center (Shenzhen's "Xiushui") knows they're buying fake goods, but when you go into the electronics markets at Huaqiangbei, you have no clue what you are buying. The phone could be an original Motorola, or a used one, or one reconstructed with a Motorola case and who-knows-what under the case. Only the briefest of looks at the repair shops they have in these markets lets you know the huge number of components and the skill the workers have with those items. Therefore, a crackdown on a market like this is much harder than one that is selling fake clothes and leads to confidence among stall owners of their success in avoiding the authorities. It's going to take a combination of harsher punishments and more diligent policing (it appears the Shenzhen PSB and other government agencies have been stepping up to the task so far) to shut them down entirely.

Until that happens, the cat-and-mouse game and trips like this central government inspection will only have a minimal impact at holding back the counterfeiters.

Is the iPhone taking over China?

Wired has a really interesting story on iPhones in China discussing how readily available they are now and how popular they've become. I know about the black market versions (ie most likely fakes) and when in Shenzhen I saw a few authorized Apple dealers that had unlocked iPhones in stock (this is not to say they don't exist in Beijing, I just haven't been shopping here that much). However, I've yet to come across anyone using an iPhone in China. My feeling is that Wired overstates the trend.

The number of authorized Apple dealers has certainly skyrocketed over the past few years and genuine Apple products are fairly easy to find, however the price still prevents many Chinese from purchasing them. In Shenzhen, where free wireless is abundant, it was common to see a number of foreigners using Apple, but you'd rarely see Chinese using them. Also, on the subway, foreigners seemed to be the sole users of iPods. In my short time in Beijing, I've noticed a number of Chinese iPod users, but that's about it. And when it comes to computer usage in China, it seems like there is only one choice for business people, Lenovo/IBM.

Apple definitely has room, and potential, to grow in China, but I think its still far from that point. Like in the US, I believe the cheaper, cool items like the iPod and iPhone will serve as a gateway, people will get hooked and then end up buying the computers, like in the US. The Wired story captures the iPhone/Apple popularity in China, but it is discussing a basically non-existent trend, though its easy to imagine that iPods and iPhones will be as ubiquitous in China could come close to matching the US if given more time.

A Night of Drama (aka False Hope at FengTi?)

Wednesday, 19:30 Hours, Fengtai Sports Stadium/Shenzhen Sports Stadium

Beijing Guoan has led the CSL in attendance for most of the season and fans who make the hike out to Fengtai have been given something to cheer about as the boys in green sit just 1 point behind the Dongbei outfit, Changchun Yatai (52 points). Changchun will face off with season long bottom feeders in Shenzhen, though Shenzhen is clear from relegation and will have nothing to play for but pride. Beijing, on the other hand, will have a much more difficult tilt against a far more motivated opponent, with Shandong Lvneng, currently sitting in 3d place on 48 points, coming to the capital city. The result in Beijing could be rendered moot if Shenzhen lays down and plays dead like they have all season, but if they can come together and pull off a draw (a victory is almost unthinkable, even for the most optimistic Beijing or Shenzhen supporter) it could be a very festive atmosphere in the capital. On top of this, there is a good chance it will rain and possibly even snow tomorrow night in Beijing, so its surely going to be a unique experience. Changchun, the newly promoted side would seemingly be (MLF runs to the research books) the first ever newly promoted team to win the league title the next season. Beijing would also be making history, for despite a number of Cup successes and painfully close calls, they've yet to secure a Jia A/CSL title, making tomorrow an exciting night for all Chinese soccer fans!

The Rain in Shenzhen?

I know its October and so this story of black rain in Shenzen is well past its "sell by" date, but now that Al Gore is a Nobel Peace Prize winner (since the environment and peace have a clear connection, eh?), why not give it a reprise?

When I saw the story it shocked me, not so much because of the black rain (it is a sad state of affairs when black rain falling isn't something shocking, but such is China's environment), but that it happened in Shenzhen, while I've been living here, and yet I had no clue about it. It seems this problem occurred away from the city center, however Nanshan is still within the SEZ. This is really surprising because at least during my experience here over the last 6 months, environmental conditions in Shenzhen are better than almost all other large cities in China. I've heard horror stories about the situation outside the SEZ, where factories are abundant, but that is far from the case inside the SEZ.

Beyond that, though, even if it is a freak occurrence, the fact you have black rain falling should come as a huge shock and lead to massive changes instead of being covered up.

Live from Shenzhen: There is a Season...

Fall seems to have arrived in Shenzhen and it is beautiful. The rain has stopped, or at least diminished, and while it is not exactly cool, the weather can no longer be described as hot and is actually livable. While this has meant road construction until all hours of the night in my part of the city, it has also meant I haven't turned on the air conditioning in a week and instead enjoy the natural breeze which on some nights can even leave a bit of a chill.

Beyond all that, the (minimal) drop in temperature that signals fall has been a bit unnoticeable to me. As someone who spent most of his life in the US (and as a student), it is still sort of strange to not be headed off to school (though I did have to say goodbye to the office interns who are heading back to Beida, all my good luck wishes to them during the year and hope they will come back to our firm when they're done). Most of all though, fall means football and, more specifically college football. I'm not a huge NFL fan (or even a football fan in general), but the spirit and pageantry of college football is always great to veg out to on a Saturday afternoon. While my alma mater, IU, has a perennially crappy team, its fun to watch whatever big time Big 10 game is on and also cheer for family favorite, USC. Plus, the start of football season means it's a bit closer to the start of the hockey season.

I always say that when I'm in the US, I constantly miss China, but when in China I only occasionally miss life in the US. Being in China now and not able to watch football, a part of me feels like the seasons aren't really changing. Chalk this up to one time when I do miss the US...

Live from Shenzhen: I'm Back and Handing Out the Love

I hahttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gifve no idea how people like Dan Harris do it, maintaining a successful legal practice as well as a successful daily blog (perhaps that is one of the perks of being a named partner), but I don't have my name on the door (or any door for that matter) and therefore am stuck writing on the rare occasions when I have the time and inclination to do so. Between work, traveling all over southern China for work, new friends, a terminal addiction to facebook and dianping, and looking for an apartment in Beijing, blogging hasn't really found a place in the mix. Beyond that, to be honest, there isn't a lot happening right now as China (or the world goes), fortunately. Certainly there are some major issues, but perhaps this is sort of the calm before the storm, when Congress really hits out at China, but right now, there just isn't too much to talk about. Of course, there is always the fact this blog is on blogspot which is still blocked in China, thus destroying a major part of the potential readership...

To ease my way back into the game and to clear out a lot of what I've been collecting, here's another simple blog wrap up...

First off, last month's issue of Esquire had an article on Shenzhen titled, , that is now available online (though thanks to my inside source for the advanced copy). It's a good read and for the most part paints a pretty accurate portrait of this city, if a bit (or WAY) over the top. World famous DJ, Paul Oakenfold, weighed in on the China club scene in the Guardian, overall he was very complimentary about China's burgeoning scene, but then he said this:

"Playing in somewhere like Shenzhen, a big, polluted, overpopulated, industrial city, you can be the only Westerner in the club. You are a long way from home and you feel it."

What? Where the hell was he? I don't have much love for southern China, but just like Dalian IS NOT Dongbei (more on that later), Shenzhen is not southern China. Shenzhen is big, but inside Guan Nei, it is NOT polluted, overpopulated, nor industrial and it is quite possibly China's most livable city. While foreigners don't overwhelm in Luohu, there are plenty in Shekou, the closest thing to a Western city area that I've seen in China.

Enough of that, on the blog front, Lost Laowai chimes in on the recent popularity of China bashing in an excellent article. Guangzhou Bang, a newish(?) blog that has become a popular read for me, has a hilarious post about when Zhang met Petra. Imagethief has an interesting post on the Chinese film industry, though I think much of the problem is that since Zhang Yimou figured out crap sells (thanks to Ang Lee), he hasn't made a decent film, Jiang Wen has been banned from film making for the past 7 years, and everyone who isn't making crappy period pieces is making crazy and impossible to understand avante garde films.

Lao Wai Wen Shen has a thought provoking post on how similar things are across China. While I completely disagree with everything he/she says and feel you could make a similar example out of any other country if you tried, it does get one to thinking and is worth a read and wider discussion.

To close it out, a great NYT story on fashion and our love/hate relationship with it, the crazy story of a 9 year old college student， and a funny story on sohu about trying to get away from Chinglish menu items (mostly in Chinese) that includes this piece of genius:
童子鸡
新版译法 Spring Chicken
民间译法 Chicken Without Sexual Life(还没有性生活的鸡)

Money, Meet Toilet....

Earlier this year I talked about Guangdong Television's purchase of the rights to broadcast the English Premiership. They were going to set up a subscription-only station called Tian Sheng and were going to charge a shitload as a way of recouping the US$50 million or so they spent to buy the rights.

Well, two weeks ago I was in Hong Kong and on every corner it seemed like there were people signing up people for whatever station you need in Hong Kong to watch English soccer. When I returned to Shenzhen, I figured I would see what was available here, despite the rumors that Tian Sheng would charge RMB188 a month. Since the majority of people reading this are expats (who are rich) and foreigners (who are richer and if in the US, own guns, isn't steoreotyping fun?) because this site is still blocked, despite rumors to the contrary, RMB188 doesn't seem like a lot. Yet right now I pay RMB120 and get HBO, Cinemax, Star Movies, Star Sports, ESPN, and a host of other channels.

That isn't the issue, even if it is RMB188 a month (which it turns out IS indeed how much it costs in Guangzhou) or even if its RMB588 a year (like in Wuhan), I'm willing to pay it. But...

It seems that in their infinite wisdom, after spending US$50 million, Tian Sheng failed to complete licensing agreements with all the local providers and so they are only up and running in a few "second-tier" cities. Beijing? Nope. Shanghai? Not yet. Shenzhen? Sorry, go to Hong Kong. Hmm...So the three richest cities in China, the ones that have the most number of people who would be willing to spend an outrageous amount for something trivial like soccer and the ones where people actually could afford the channel are the ones where you can't get it.

As a fan of the EPL, I'm outraged I still can't see it in Shenzhen. As someone looking in from the outside, I can't help laughing at how Guangdong TV tossed its investment, at least for this year, down the drain by horrible planning, I just hope that doesn't come out of the taxes I pay to Guangdong Province.

Live From Shenzhen: Photo Edition III

sorry if the last photo comes up on its side, I'll blame it on the typhoon. If anyone knows why that happens in blogger and how to correct that, I'd greatly appreciate the help!

Live From Shenzhen: Foreigners Wanted, Apply at Your Local PSB Bureau

I like reading the Shenzhen Daily on a regular basis, it usually has good information on the goings on in the city and had some interesting and often times (unintended) humorous articles. This article on the local police looking for foreigners to work for them as "undercover shoppers" in Luohu Commercial Center really caught my eye.
The idea is that some sellers won't showcase the main counterfeit goods in their store, but will present a catalogue to foreign customers that includes all of the fake designer goods. It will be very interesting how this effects business there and how many fines or closings this will bring about. Will there be foreigners interested in doing it? Hell, a weekend strolling through the mall and getting paid isn't so bad, but then you have to deal with people pulling you every which way and offering you everything under the sun, maybe I should rethink trying for the job.

That said, I'd still love to see an all or nothing approach instead of this "we'll ignore it, but occasionally take action when the mood (or the campaign) calls for it" attitude that exists. The problem is that its such a big part of the economy and it employs so many people that it is impossible for the police to shut it down, but at the same time, if they don't appear like they're doing something, they'll be attacked by foreign companies and governments, so the middle road is all there is.

Oh yeah, and just to show how informative Shenzhen Daily is, the day after the article reporting the "foreign shoppers" there was this article about a new breakfeast place called "Ihope" that has a logo (and name) eerily similar to a famous US chain that also offers all-day breakfeast. Though whatever Ihope stands for, the P definitely isn't for pancakes, as it seems (at least according to the article) this breakfeast place doesn't serve them.

Live From Shenzhen: Saunas (No, not that kind, get your mind out of the gutter, though THAT might be available...)

I don't mind a nice massage from time to time and I'm willing to admit it (okay, stop it already, I'm just talking about a massage!). This is not something that is possible to enjoy in the US due to the expense, but here its a relatively cheap indulgence and after a weekend of drinking at Lan Kwai Fong, causing my credit card grave pain at IFC, and having carried many large, heavy bags around HK and then into Shenzhen, I figured a massage may be nice. A blind friend who knows the lay of the land in Shenzhen (and basically everyone in China's blind community) and who happened to forget his key in HK took me and a female friend of his to a sauna near the train station. As it happens, Luohu, and especially around the train station is where over 1,000 blind masseurs work, yet unlike in other cities where “盲人按摩" (Blind Man Massage) signs are ubiquitous, its a very rare sight in Shenzhen, as most work at large saunas.

I've never had the "sauna" experience in other cities, so I can't compare, but have heard the experience is a little special here. You start out by picking a masseur, there is literally a book of male and female photos, of the blind and sighted, and for those who pick a sighted individual, there is definitely the chance of a happy ending if required. Of course those regular readers would know I went with a blind individual who I trusted my two friends was one of the best they had (stop it!). You can then bathe and relax for awhile before getting the massage. The massage usually lasts for 3 hours (or more) and you can order drinks and snacks. There is a common room where you can sit and watch tv after or you can choose to have a private room with tv where you can actually spend the night. A good option if you travel to another city but don't have your passport or are looking for cheap accommodations (about RMB200 for the night, not including massage).

The massage itself will set you back around RMB80 for the three hours, at least in Shenzhen (due to the HK influence), you should usually tip, its common to give around RMB10-20 per hour.

THAT kind of place is unfortunately very ubiquitous in Shenzhen. Well, I've never been inside, but when you see a bunch of scantily clad girls lazily laying around in a "barbershop" without chairs or scissors, well, if it walks like a duck and it talks like a duck...While I know these kind of places exist in other cities, typically attempts are made to at least cover them up a little bit, whereas here it is so open and obvious. Not sure how the little places survive, the saunas are making good money and either owned by gangsters or paying protection to them (as well as the police in most cases).

Anyways, massage is a great way to relax, it also helps to support the blind, and its cheap. If you're looking for a sauna, they are all around the train station, but if you're looking for a good massage spot, go to the 2nd floor of the Luohu Commercial Center.

Live From Shenzhen: Photo Edition II

Live From Shenzhen: Photo Edition I

sorry, I have no idea why the last 2 pictures came out sideways...

Live From Shenzhen: Giving Up My Barbershop for a Chinese Salon

The Crosstown Barbershop in Bloomington, Indiana is the epitome of what a barbershop should be. Its a place for men only, where the tv is always on ESPN, the walls are covered in IU sports memorabilia, the jokes are raunchy and rapid, and it serves as a community center for the men of Bloomington. It is the sort of place that if it hasn't been there for the past 50 years, it sure seems like it has, and things probably haven't changed much there for the past 50 years. The shop is authentically retro, not just retro because that is whats "in" at the moment. In my 7 years there, the price went up from US$9 to $11, and that change, toward the end of the 7 years, was an extremely difficult one for the owner to make and for customers to accept.

Why do I discuss this in a post about Shenzhen? The fact is there is no equivalent to this sort of barbershop in China. While I say the Crosstown is the epitome of what a barbershop should be, every town has its own version, the one place (other than a bar) where men go to be men, talk about sports and girls, and get a simple, no frills hair cut. I guess the closest thing is the guy who is cutting hair in some local park or on the street. Salons rule the city, and most other cities in China. The process involves the longest hair washing of your life, followed by (for men at least) a very short hair cut and then yet another hair washing.

There is no need for me to go over all of this, Ben's blog details the situation well after having spent a month working at a barbershop. Why I want to talk about this is that as someone used to a no frills, cheap experience, its hard finding a place to go for a haircut here. There's a place right outside my building where they do it all for RMB35. For the price, the place is actually very nice. However, I was curious as to what else there is out there. I considered briefly going to the Salon Esprit in MixC, but figured the price (whatever it is) is too much considering my hair is not the most stylish and is extremely simple to cut.

After having seen a tip online about another place close to my apartment, on Bao An Nan Rd, next to Xiao Fei Yang, I figured I'd check it out. From the outside, the place looks very high end and the products are from the French line, Kerastase. The owner (or who I presumed was the owner) greeted me at the entrance and showed me to the washing area. There one of the "little sisters" took my bag, put it in a locker and gave me the key, as well as giving me a robe to put on over my clothing. This place has one innovation that I haven't seen elsewhere, while they have a flat screen tv at the entrance and tvs by the hair cutting stations, so that you won't be bored during the lengthy hair washing process, they have 3 tvs mounted on the ceiling, so as you look up, you can watch. The hair products were high quality, if not very manly (even today after 2 showers, I still catch a wiff of a baby powderish smell on my hair and back). Also, beyond the typical cup of lukewarm water, they offered pop, orange juice, and a few other options.

Overall, this is an excellent place for a mid-priced (well, I guess more high end) haircut. To a westerner, even a guy used to barbershops, the RMB118 I paid for the wash and cut won't seem too bad. Sure, they didn't do that much better than the guys charging RMB35 (and I had to walk a different way to avoid their looks, out of guilt, sort of like Jerry and Uncle Enzo), but I'm embracing the high end customer service. Having had my haircut for RMB6 and for prices that might cause even John Edwards to blush, I have to say that this place, which is higher end for China but still far from the most expensive, is a very good choice.

If you'd like to try them out, the shop is called 主流发型美容情报站 and it is located at 罗湖区宝安南路2078号深港豪苑首层, for those that can't read Chinese, just look for the "Hair Salon" signs next to Xiao Fei Yang on Bao An Rd. It isn't like the barbershops that I'm used to, but it will certainly do the job.

Live from Shenzhen: Wasting Away a Saturday When I Encounter Beckham

The day started with a late departure to "Wang Zi" (or the Grand Prince Restaurant) located in MixC (why the hell is there a c on the end of that?). The place was packed and everyone seemed to be speaking Cantonese. Being in Shenzhen, in Guangdong Province the home of Guangdong hua (Cantonese), perhaps you think this is normal, but Shenzhen is a city of outsiders, and this is a truly rare experience. But there are still native Shenzheners (and of course plenty of HK residents over for the weekend) and they need their dim sum on a weekend morning, so its no surprise, especially considering Wang Zi is probably one of the best (and definitely one of the most impressive places) to enjoy "yum cha." For dim sum fans I'd highly recommend it as its one of Shenzhen's best spots and its a truly impressive restaurant. However, make sure to get there early as the lines get long and prices go up (not sure if they offer the lower prices on dim sum on the weekends or if that is only during the week, will investigate more later).

After that it was off to Dongmen. How to describe Dongmen? Being a Beijinger, that is my reference. So imagine a marriage between a crappy version of Wangfujing and a crappy version of XiuShui. Otherwise just imagine Xidan Shopping Center on a Saturday afternoon, times ten. It is teenagers galore buying fake (or at least very cheap) clothing and bags mixed with a few reputable shopping malls that cause for an unbelievable mass of people at this "walking street" that is extremely easy to get lost in.

What stopped me, and is the main reason for this post, was a discovery in one of the stores selling fake soccer and basketball jerseys. I truly regret not taking a picture of this one of a kind sight. Alongside fake versions of Ronaldinho Barcelona jerseys and Shevchenko Chelsea jerseys, there it was, displayed prominently, a Beckham jersey, but it wasn't a Madrid jersey, nor even an England jersey, it was an LA Galaxy jersey (I really, really regret not taking a photo of it). I am still at a loss for words over this finding. While I don't think Beckham to LA will heighten the quality of play in the MLS or will lead to more stars going there, this is a major coup for US soccer. Ten years ago I bet even a lot of players in the league couldn't name many of the teams and media coverage, even in MLS team cities was nonexistant (not that its much better now). Today, the league is receiving coverage around the globe, granted its all due to a single player and is likely to die down after a few months, but for those that wonder about the impact Beckham is having and how global it truly is, let me tell you, believe the hype.

After Dongmen, more shopping, but this time a bit higher end (fake) shopping at Luohu Commercial Center. The towering behometh, a 5 story building where buying fake purses is just as popular as getting your nails done, is converged upon by visitors in from HK for the day. Here the quality of the fakes is probably better than anywhere else and the focus IS on fakes, mainly fake bags, clothes, golf clubs, and small electronics. It is not a fun experience as the sellers are even more pushy than what you'd encounter at Beijing institutions like XiuShui or Hongqiao, but the goods are good.

Dinner was more Cantonese food at ShengJi, next to Lizhi Park on Hongling Lu (not too far from the DaJuYuan (Grand Theater) metro stop). While it is a bit pricy (much like Wang Zi) the food is high quality and the portions are large. Seafood is what's on the menu and you'll walk past the many tanks full of fish as you enter. The waitresses are relatively helpful (though they don't speak English, for those non-Chinese speakers, the menu is in Chinglish) and surprisingly will offer good recommendations and not just suggest the most expensive items on the menu. The setting and the food mean that it gets my seal of approval.

Not sure if there will be more posts like this in the future, but we'll see. My love of food (and my lack of time to cook) means I eat out a lot, but typically just around my home base. While I've written plenty of reviews on dianping (see the sidebar on the right for my page with all the reviews), I haven't brought that over to this page, yet.

In any case, this is the 3rd in the "Live from Shenzhen" series, expect more to come in the future as I encounter the strangeness and contradictions that make this city what it is.

Live From Shenzhen: Solutionless Problem?

Chinese people love cars and everyone wants to own their own. They represent riches, freedom, independence. Unfortunately, they bring with them a number of problems, pollution, noise, traffic, but to most Chinese, these things are a small price to pay. Those that can afford to buy a car are doing so, those that can't are saving up and patiently waiting for the day that they can. Therefore, when the mayor of a city as prosperous as Shenzhen comes out and tells the people of Shenzhen that they should stop buying cars (Chinese only), it creates a big stink in the media.

His reasoning is based on 2 main things: the traffic and the enivornment. Traffic in the city is getting worse and worse and the more cars on the roads could lead to a decline of Shenzhen's currently very livable conditions. The mayor admits that this isn't a ban and he doesn't have the right to stop people from buying cars, but its more an attempt to encourage people to stop.

The problem is that he misses the main problem. The problem isn't with people owning cars, its with the number of people who end up driving those cars to work, instead of just using them for night/weekend transportation as in the case in most large cities around the world. The reason why? The abundance of cheap parking in the city.

A boss (like mine for example) living in OCT (Overseas Chinese Town, where much of the high end housing is located) is not going to take the subway into town and be amongst the "riff raff." A cab ride from there and back will probably run him close to RMB100 a day. However, he can probably find a place to park amongst the small, older apartment complexes that are within a few minutes walk of Diwang (Shenzhen's main building) and the Stock Exchange. How much would he pay for such prime parking? In a place like New York or Chicago, it may cost him in upwards of US$50 or even more per day, creating a major dissincentive for him to drive to work. But this is China, so how much does it cost? RMB50. Yes, that's right, when compared to cabbing it, he'll actually be saving money. After work if he wants to stop off at a bar or restaurant and needs to leave the car in a paid parking lot, he'll probably be paying less than RMB10.

Economics would simply say get all the people running the parking lots together, create their monopoly, and jack up the prices. The reality, though, is that these "parking lots" are often individually leased out by people who have apartments in these nearby older apartment buildings (or by the building owners), but don't have cars, so instead they rent them to workers in the building. Thus, its not going to be easy getting all these individuals together, unless the city takes over parking operations for downtown.

As long as parking continues to be so cheap, more and more people will go out and buy cars and, even worse, will drive them to work on a daily basis. Let's just hope positive measures are taken in other areas to keep Shenzhen green.

Sunday Photo Thread: Asian Cup Opens Edition

Live from Shenzhen, a Culture City (?)

Shenzhen has received a bad rap, somewhat desveredly, as a city without culture. It lacks the arts scene that exists in cities like Beijing and Shanghai and despite its close location to Hong Kong, its music scene is probably weaker than an armpit city like Jinan, which, despite its crapiness, its proximity to Beijing makes it easy for bands (which are usually based in Beijing) to make a trip jaunt south for a show.

Well, this weekend, my friends, Shenzhen became a happening city for culture...The famous rock band, Tang Dynasty, was in town for a show at Base Bar in Nanshan on Friday night. Further, there was a Peking Opera performance at the Grand Opera House on Friday and Saturday. To top it all off, famed writer Su Tong gave a lecture at the Shenzhen Library on Saturday. A pretty good weekend of activities, and more should be expected considering this week is some kind of "Arts Festival," at least according to the signs around DaJuYuan...And of course, Shenzhen always has an offering for those who aren't into "culture," the World is holding its Beer Fest, though there are conflicting reports on whether that ends today or runs through the week. Either way, it almost makes me consider making the trip out that way and going to the World (god forbid!)...